Making Leaf Mould
Leaves contain high amounts of woody tissue called lignin; this will slow down the composting process if they are added to a standard compost bin. For this reason, it's much better to compost fallen leaves separately. This may be done simply by storing them in black plastic rubbish bags along with a leaf-mould activator. Leave the bags for a week, and then pierce holes all over the bag with a garden fork and store in a shady place for about a year.
Alternatively, you can make a dedicated leaf-mould bin using chicken wire.
Materials
- 4 x pressure treated timber posts, 50 mm x 50 mm x 1.2 m in length. Tree stakes are good as they come with a pointed end
- roll of galvanised chicken mesh
- metal fencing staples
- an old piece of carpet or black plastic
Method
- Hammer two posts into the ground, spaced a metre apart to form the back of the bin.
- Hammer the front posts into the ground, making the tops level with the back ones.
- Position the chicken wire along the front post, securing it with fencing staples.
- Run the wire to the back post, stretching it tight around the post, again securing it with fencing staples.
- Repeat this procedure around the next two posts, creating a three sided bin, open at the front.
- Place the leaves in the bin, spreading each layer evenly. Sycamore, horse chestnut, sweet chestnut, conifer and evergreen leaves tend to take a long time to rot down and are best shredded before being added to your heap. Avoid using holly leaves as they do not tend to rot successfully.
- Spread a layer of old container compost or garden soil between each layer. You may also add a leaf-mould activator.
- Cover the top of the pile with a piece of old carpet or black plastic, weighted down with stones or bricks.
- After two years, the resulting compost can be used as a garden compost or may be sieved to make your own potting compost.