Installing a Polytunnel
A walk-in polytunnel protects crops from wind, cold and heavy rain just like a cloche, but forms a more permanent structure. Its larger size gives it the advantage of being able to house a large number of plants.
Polytunnel kits come in a variety of sizes; 3-5.5 m (10-18 ft) wide and 3-20 m (10-65 ft) long. They usually come supplied with 720 gauge polythene that has been stabilised against ageing from ultra-violet light, which means that is should last approximately 4 years before it needs replacing. The life of the cover can be extended by using anti-hot spot tape, which stops heat from the metal frame causing weak spots in the polythene.
Method
- To avoid the polytunnel becoming excessively hot in summer, it is best to position it so that its longest side runs from north to south. Mark out the site carefully with a builder's line, making sure that the corners are correctly aligned so the final tunnel is straight.
- Make sure that the ground is thoroughly clear of weeds as they will grow very fast once the tunnel is erected.
- Dig a trench and insert the provided foundation tubes into the ground.
- Place each hoop into position, and slot them together at the top.
- Apply anti-hot spot tape to the top of the hoops.
- It is best to apply the polythene cover on a warm day - the sheeting should be opened up and allowed to warm up so that it is flexible enough to be pulled taut over the frame.
- Pull the polythene cover over the hoops and anchor the edges down by burying them in the trench.
- Assemble the door frame as instructed by the kit, making sure that any rough sawn timber edges do not cause snags in the cover.
- Apply a layer of organic mulch to conserve water and suppress weeds.
- Inspect the cover regularly and repair any rips with special tape.