An arbour is a shaded sitting place, usually with just one open side. It can be built against a tall wall, creating an area of cool shade - a delightful addition to a hot patio. Growing an array of scented climbers such as honeysuckle (Lonicera) or jasmine (Jasminum polyanthum) over an arbour can make it a particularly appealing place in which to sit.

Whilst arbours can be made from a variety of materials such as hedges, brick or metal, this article will guide you step-by-step through every stage of making a timber arbour.

Design

Mark out the area where you want to position your arbour.

• Height: Allow plenty of headroom so that you can easily walk underneath the crossbeams and climbing plants to reach the seating area; leave a minimum of 2.15 m (7 ft), although 2.5 m (8 ft) would be better.
• Width: Make sure that it is wide enough to accommodate your seating, together with any plants that you want to place alongside.
• Depth: The arbour should be as deep as the bench or other seating that you plan to use, plus at least 50 cm (1 1/2 ft). If you plan to use the arbour as an eating area, set out the table and chairs as you would use them, again adding at least 50 cm to this measurement.

Materials

• Uprights (4): 10 cm x 10 cm x 3.2 m pressure treated timber
• Cross beams (4): 2.5 cm x 15 cm x length (allow an overhang of 20 cm beyond the side posts)
• Side-beams (4): 2.5 cm x 15 cm x depth (plus overhang)
• Rafters: 2.5 cm x 2.5 cm (or 5 cm x 5 cm) x depth (plus overhang)
• Trellis panels to form back and sides

Method

1. Paint or stain all the wood with two coats before you start building.
2. Mark out where you want to place the upright posts using pegs and string, checking any right angles with a builder's square.
3. Dig a hole for the first post - this must be deep enough for about a quarter of the post to be underground.
4. Fill the bottom of the hole with a 15 cm (6 in) base of hardcore, then stand the post in the hole and pack it round with more hardcore to hold it in position.
5. Pour in concrete and tamp down.
6. Check that it is upright with a spirit level, and then leave to set for a couple of days before fixing the crossbeams. Alternatively, use metal post holders.
7. Make a mark on the front and the reverse side of each upright post 10 cm (4 in) from the top.
8. Take the first crossbeam and hold it across the back two posts, so that the top of the beam rests on the 10 cm mark you made.
9. Use nails underneath the beams to help support them while you screw them into place.
10. Secure the second crossbeam on the other side of the back posts in the same way.
11. Repeat with two more crossbeams on the front uprights.
12. Fix the side beams, one on either side of each pair of side uprights. If your arbour is backed by a wall, fix the side beams to a metal joist shoe which has been attached to the wall at the right height.
13. Add rafters to fit on top the arbour cross beams. These should overhang the front and back cross beams for an attractive edge.
14. Fix panels of trellis to the side posts, and optionally, along the back.
15. Check that all post tops are level - you may have to trim them. Treat any newly sawn ends of treated timber with a coat of wood preservative.