Fragana species
Family: Rosaceae

Frasaria chiloensis, believed to be from Chile, was introduced to France early in the 18th century. It was then crossed with F. virginiana, producing the first of the modern cultivars with larger flowers and fruit. The low-growing Fragaria hybrids (Fragaria x ananassa) not only provide the succulent red fruit which is everyone's favourite, but also decorative ground-covers for the rock garden. The delicious wild strawberry, Frasaria vesca, has been cultivated in Europe for centuries, spreading to other parts of the world as it was improved in size and bearing qualities. Strawberries are eaten fresh with pure, thick cream, and home-made strawberry jam is a must for a Devonshire tea. They are also delicious when used to decorate cakes and tarts. Strawberries are popular as they are easy to grow and do not require much space. With the many cultivars available, it is possible to have strawberries through summer and autumn.

Species

Fragaria x ananasa is a perennial, evergreen, herbaceous groundcover, spreading by means of runners. It has compound leaves comprised of three leaflets, with toothed mar-gins and small, white flowers. The red fruit is fleshy. Some cultivars bear fruit 5 cm (2 in) or more in length. Strawberries are classified into different types. June-bearing cultivars produce one crop per year, in late spring, early summer or later in the summer. These are the most popular strawberries. Everbearing cultivars crop on and off over a long period, in summer and through into autumn. Plants of these are often replaced annually. Usually the first flush of flowers is removed. Cultivars of June-fruiting and overbearing strawberries are constantly being developed and improved, so study catalogues of mail-order fruit specialists for details of the latest cultivars and to find out which are suitable for your area.

F. vesca, the wild straw-berry, which includes alpine strawberries, is native to Europe and several cultivars are available. The deep red fruit is generally smaller than that of the strawberry grown for the commercial market and is produced over a long period in summer and autumn.

Cultivation

Strawberries need a well-drained soil, preferably a sandy loam, and a site in full sun. Prepare the bed well before planting. Dig well and fertilize with half a cup of blood and bone per square metre (yard). Incorporate some well-decayed manure or compost into the top soil layer. Raising the bed ensures perfect drainage.

Strawberries can be grown from runners, but it is best to plant virus-free stock from certified growers. The best planting time is late summer. Doss-ever, everbearing strawberries are planted in summer, autumn or spring. Remove the outside leaves of new plants and trim them. Spread the roots and plant so the base of the crown is just above soil level. Set the plants in rows, with about 30 cm (12 in) between plants and 40 cm (16 in) between rows.

In frost-prone climates, late spring frosts can kill the flowers, so if there is a risk, it is advisable to cover the rows of plants with cloches or fleece during flowering. If the plants are kept covered after fruit set, then fruits will ripen earlier.

Weed control is essential at all times. To make this easier, black polythene sheeting or weed matting, obtainable from nurseries, can be laid over the beds, with holes cut out for the plants. The sheeting acts as a mulch, represses weeds, and keeps the fruit clean and off the ground. However, ensure the ground is thoroughly soaked before laying the plastic.

As the plants develop, remove the runners to avoid weakening the plants and to prevent unwanted spreading. Keep plants well watered, taking care to direct water to the planting holes. To harvest the strawberries, nip off just behind the star-shaped calyx. About every two or three years, replace with new stock rather than old runners.

The strawberry is more prone to pest and disease attack than most other fruit, one of the main predators being birds which will pick oft the fruit before it is fully ripened. To prevent this, place a fine, wire mesh over the strawberry bed once flowering begins. Mites, thrips, gray mould, mildew and leaf spot can cause problems. Gray mould attacks not only the fruit, but also the flowers and stems, and can be the cause of poor fruit set.

Climate

Zone 4. Choose varieties to suit your climate.